H-Cut

H-Cut

v. To open a CARDBOARD or plastic wrapped CASE by making an H-shaped cut in its top surface. —n. Such an H-shaped cut. See also BASE-CUT, BOX CUTTER, LIFT-CUT, PEEK-CUT, SHARK-CUT, STACK-CUT, TAPE-CUT, TOP-CUT, TRAY-CUT, WINDOW-CUT, X-CUT. See also RIM LOCK.

NOTE: The benefit of an H-Cut is it's one of the least invasive cuts, and most importantly of all, it preserves the integrity of the CASE'S sides. This is no big deal if you know for certain that the entire CASE will GO. But, if you're unsure, or you expect to have leftovers, what happens next? The answer is, the remainder of the CASE most likely gets STACKED—either on a SPECIALS CART or an OVERSTOCK RUNNER—and you'll need the CASE to be as strong and sturdy as possible to protect both the PRODUCT and you against any potential mishaps.

Technically, you might call the way you open a standard CARDBOARD CASE with a middle seam on top an H-Cut, since if you cut the two sides and the seam, it is H-shaped. However, that's just a standard TAPE-CUT, and not what we're talking about here. Here, we mean a cut covering an area smaller than the full top of the CASE.

TIP: H-Cut Plastic Tops. Until you're sure it'll all GO, start with an H-CUT on top when you first open any plastic-wrapped CARDBOARD trays like spaghetti sauce or cat food. This keeps the CASE'S ends and edges tight, and helps maintain the package's integrity if it ends up on the SPECIALS CART or in OVERSTOCK.

Hand JACK

Hand JACK

n. See JACK.

Hide

Hide

v. To place a slight excess of a PRODUCT somewhere close to its regular HOLE on the SHELF, once the HOLE itself has been completely filled: “Hide up to 2 or 3 extra items—no more.” See also GO, JAM, LAY-IN, MAKE IT GO.

NOTE: Why Hide? Because it saves time and trouble. Picture it: you've filled the HOLE, except you have one or two ITEMS left over. As appropriate, do you take them back to the SPECIALS RUNNERS or BACK-STOCK them? It depends...

Generally speaking, you should not attempt to Hide big, bulky ITEMS like gi-gundo bags of dog food, or mega-canisters of laundry detergent. Neither should you try to Hide something that MOVES very slowly, like, say, a specialty imported chutney.

It's generally OK to Hide it if:

• after filling its assigned HOLE, you only have 1, 2, or at most 3 ITEMS left over
  
• it's relatively small
• it's popular, has high turn-over, and the Hidden ITEMS will soon be reunited with the rest of the STOCK in the right SPOT
  
• there's enough space either to the left or the right of its assigned HOLE
• you can't JAM the extra where it belongs

When possible, JAMMING is preferable to Hiding, because it doesn't disturb other ITEMS.

Hiding a slight excess among neighboring ITEMS to the left or right is preferable to a SPOT on another SHELF above or below because on the same SHELF it's more easily discovered and more easily corrected as ITEMS are sold, or perhaps, as NIGHT CREW does its finishing BLOCK.

It's generally better to Hide shallow, behind just a few neighboring ITEMS, and not all the way at the back of the neighboring HOLE. Remember, you want Hidden ITEMS to be restored to their proper HOLE sooner rather than later. It's bad if, say, the same size and shape of pickle jar is buried and goes undiscovered at the back of a neighboring HOLE when the ITEM'S proper HOLE has run empty. The goal is to mess up the ordering and INVENTORY control system as little as possible.

High-Lift

High-Lift

n. A heavy, powered, walk-behind forklift capable of lifting a loaded PALLET up to about three stories high and extending its fork to insert and remove it from the OVERSTOCK RACKS in the BACK ROOM. See also JACK.

NOTE: At my STORE we're presently using a Yale Crown 30WRTT, which you might describe as something of a, um, “classic.”

The first few times you use this dingus, you're sure to be anxious—with good reason—about getting that PALLET safely into the RACKING or down flat on the ground. If there's any question at all about STACKED CASES wobbling or shifting, remember to WRAP what's going up—it's well worth the minimal time and trouble.

Later, after you've gained some experience and the heebie-jeebies are (mostly) behind you, consider this tip:

TIP: Keep It Up. To put less strain on your back, you can temporarily leave a PALLET elevated at a convenient height whenever you're immediately offloading its contents onto a RUNNER. When finished, DROP it or RACK it right away. Don't leave it up in the air!

WARNING: Watch out! The High-Lift is not capable of maintaining an exact height either empty or under load for long durations. It will gradually drop lower over time. Thus it's important to always return it to its fully “grounded” position as soon as possible. The tines on its fork should furthermore be parked flush with the floor (i.e., not tilted up) in order to minimize the risk of ankle or other injuries.

When not in use, the best place for the High-Lift is in its home, a special bay beside the door to the POP SHELLS PORCH in RECEIVING.

Note that there's a right way and a wrong way to connect the High-Lift battery charger connector cable. One way works, the other... Well, just make sure the MARKS (i.e., ///) line up on the two pieces of the connector, and you'll have done it the right way.

TIP: Want Help? Just Ask! The GROCERY MANAGER would much rather take a few moments to help you get something up or down than have to deal with an enormous mess or accident. So, be smart. If you even think you might need help, don't be ashamed to ask for it.

TRUE STORY: Just the other day, the M.O.D. asked me to bring down a boxed, folding summer cabana for a customer that was waiting at the front of the STORE. The extremely large and heavy ITEM was on a PALLET along with two others up in the BACKROOM hallway RACKING, third tier.

Hmmm... Very heavy. Very high. Awkward shape. Tight fit. Minimal working room. Waiting customer.

Macho, me? Nope. I've got years of experience, but I took one look and right away asked the GROCERY MANAGER for help. He got it down quickly and without incident. Don't you just love stories with a happy ending? Pride should always give way to prudence, or good judgment.

Hit

Hit

v. To tidy up by BLOCKING, as in the directive: “Hit the end-caps and wings.” See BLOCK, GET AROUND.

Hole

Hole

n. 1. A PRODUCT'S normally assigned SPOT on the SHELF. 2. A SPOT that's either nearly or completely empty.

Hollow

Hollow

n., adj. A DISPLAY characteristic, as having a false front and interior supports; same as DUMMIED UP: “Build it hollow.” Contrast SOLID.

Hollow Out

Hollow Out

v. To take PRODUCT from the interior of a DISPLAY, behind its FACE, usually to build it up higher again: “Hollow out that display.”

Holster

Holster

n. A small, separate, pocket-like container affixed to a belt via a clip which is used to hold and keep a BOX CUTTER readily available when not in immediate use. See also BELT CLIP. Contrast HUNT2.

Hunt

Hunt

v. 1. To physically lead or guide a CUSTOMER who is in search of a particular PRODUCT: “We're hunting for Tahini.” See also WHERE IS... ? 2. To search in your pants pocket for your CUTTER.

NOTE:

Hunting1, that is, taking the time and trouble when asked to help a CUSTOMER locate what they want to buy helps build GOODWILL, and is generally A Very Good Thing. Even if you don't find it, they know you care.

Continually Hunting2 in your pants pocket for your BOX CUTTER is both a nuisance and a waste of time. Get a BELT CLIP or HOLSTER.